Monmouthshire
STRADDLING the border between Wales and England, Monmouthshire feels like a gentle handshake between two countries. It’s a county of market towns, storybook ruins and wooded river valleys, where long-distance paths thread past abbey walls and vineyard rows, and cosy inns reward a day on the trail.
Framed by the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) to the west and the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty to the east, Monmouthshire’s landscapes are wonderfully varied.
Around Abergavenny, distinctive peaks – Sugar Loaf, the Blorenge and the Skirrid – rise above fertile farmland and hedgerows. Follow the River Wye south and you’re in a world of limestone cliffs, hanging woods and riverside meadows, as photogenic as Britain gets. The River Usk, famed for salmon, winds through the county’s heart, past the well-kept town of Usk and its castle mound.
History lovers are spoiled. Chepstow Castle, perched spectacularly above the Wye, is one of Britain’s earliest and most impressive stone fortresses. Raglan Castle’s grand Tudor gatehouse hints at the swagger of its former owners. The ‘Three Castles’ of Skenfrith, Grosmont and White Castle sit like sentinels among low hills, linked by a superb 19-mile circular walk. And Tintern Abbey – roofless, romantic, wrapped in trees – remains one of the most evocative monastic sites in the UK, inspiring artists and poets for centuries.
Food and drink are central to Monmouthshire’s modern identity. Abergavenny has become synonymous with excellent eating, hosting the renowned Abergavenny Food Festival each September. Local producers supply farmhouse cheeses, rare-breed meats, artisan ciders and an increasingly confident crop of Welsh wines. You’ll find vineyards around Tintern and Monmouth, welcoming visitors for tastings and tours. Cosy country pubs and refined restaurants make the most of it all.
Walkers, cyclists and paddlers are well served. Offa’s Dyke Path traces the ancient earthwork along the border; the Wye Valley Walk and Usk Valley Walk provide gentler riverside routes; and the Wales Coast Path begins at nearby Chepstow. Canoeing on the Wye offers a tranquil, wildlife-rich perspective – keep an eye out for kingfishers and herons. Road cyclists will enjoy quiet lanes through the Trellech and Devauden hills, while mountain bikers can head for forest trails and bridleways.
Monmouth itself is a handsome county town of independent shops, historic inns and the timbered Shire Hall. Chepstow bustles with race-day energy (the Welsh Grand National is a winter highlight), while Usk charms with floral displays and a laid-back high street. Market towns make ideal bases, each with characterful accommodation – from boutique inns and converted farmsteads to riverside campsites.
Visitor highlights at a glance
- Tintern Abbey and the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty
- Chepstow, Raglan and the ‘Three Castles’ (Skenfrith, Grosmont, White Castle)
- Peaks around Abergavenny: Sugar Loaf, Blorenge, Skirrid
- Long-distance trails: Offa’s Dyke Path, Wye Valley Walk, Usk Valley Walk
- Abergavenny Food Festival and vineyard tours
Practicalities: Monmouthshire is easy to reach via the M4/M48 and rail links to Abergavenny, Chepstow and Monmouth (by bus). Spring to early autumn brings the best walking and festival calendar, but winter has its own appeal – crisp valley views, roaring pub fires and fewer crowds.
Whether you come for castle-bagging, valley rambles, good food or a leisurely glass by the vines, Monmouthshire delivers a classic Welsh welcome – with an elegant borderland twist.
Picture Special: A WANDER AROUND… CHEPSTOW