Pembrokeshire
PEMBROKESHIRE, the wild south-west corner of Wales, is a county shaped – and utterly defined – by the sea. Much of it lies within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, the UK’s only national park designated primarily for its coastal landscape, where cliffs, islands and dune-backed beaches roll into one spectacular, ever-changing shoreline.
Threading the whole edge is the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, a 186-mile (299km) National Trail that twists from Amroth in the south to St Dogmaels in the north. Whether you tackle a day section or the whole thing, expect Atlantic panoramas, seabird cliffs, fishing coves and handsome harbour towns at regular intervals. It’s the longest and oldest established section of the Wales Coast Path and a pilgrimage for walkers who like their scenery big and their waymarked trails simple.
Beaches are a Pembrokeshire calling card. Choose broad arcs of golden sand such as Freshwater West and Broad Haven South, family-friendly stretches around Tenby and Saundersfoot, or tucked-away coves perfect for rock-pooling. The county’s beaches are protected by National Park status and regularly clock up Blue Flag and Green Coast awards for clean seas and sands. If you fancy a mini-adventure, make the half-mile clifftop walk to Barafundle Bay – often likened to a Caribbean cove, but blissfully without shops or traffic.
Out on the water, wildlife steals the show. Skomer Island – just off the Marloes peninsula – is an internationally important seabird reserve, famous for its charismatic puffins (spring to mid-summer), vast colonies of Manx shearwaters and a good chance of spotting porpoises or seals on the crossings. Boat trips also run around Ramsey and Grassholm for close-up views of cliffs, caves and gannet-covered stacks.
History runs deep here too. St Davids, built around its magnificent cathedral, is officially Britain’s smallest city and has drawn pilgrims for centuries; today it’s a pocket-sized base for galleries, surf breaks and island boat trips. To the east, mighty Pembroke Castle – founded by the Normans and later rebuilt by William Marshal – was the birthplace of Henry VII, founder of the Tudor dynasty.
Adventure is very much part of the local DNA. It’s widely accepted that coasteering – scrambling, leaping and swimming along wave-washed cliff lines with expert guides – was born on this coastline around St Davids, and it remains one of the most exhilarating ways to experience the raw Atlantic edge. Sea kayaking, surfing, paddleboarding and guided wildlife boat tours round out the menu for salty-haired days out.
Look inland and the Preseli Hills offer a different mood: heathery ridges, prehistoric sites and big skies. This is where the famous “bluestones” used at Stonehenge were quarried, adding another layer of myth and archaeology to a county already rich in story. Walkers can roam ancient trackways like the Golden Road and end the day in a slate-roofed village pub.
Why Pembrokeshire for your next trip? Because it makes it easy to do a lot – or very little. You can stitch together clifftop walks with gallery browsing and castle climbing; mix barefoot beach days with island wildlife and a coasteering leap of faith; or simply settle into a colourful seaside town and watch boats bob in the evening light. With characterful places to stay, friendly, outdoorsy communities and a coastline that keeps delivering fresh views with every headland, Pembrokeshire is a Welsh classic that rewards return visits – no matter the season.
PEMBROKESHIRE COAST NATIONAL PARK
WELSH WILDLIFE CENTRE AND TEIFI MARSHES NATURE RESERVE
AROUND WALES – A REGIONAL GUIDE
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